Between 1930 and 1990, most men’s watches sat between 30mm and 36mm. That’s a real golden ratio. Ladies’ watches were usually under 30mm, typically 26mm or 27mm. These days it isn't uncommon to see watches in excess of 44+ mm in every direction. Just take a look at this massive Invicta. This 58 mm dive watch is a monstrosity, but it sells. It makes me sick how far we’ve fallen!
Somewhere in the early 2000s, men made the mistake of purchasing larger-in-diameter watches to show off their masculinity. As a matter of fact, everything was bigger in the early 2000s—shirts, jeans, hats, etc... Just an absolutely misguided era for style. Even today as I go through pages of watch forums or endless scroll watch Reddit communities, it’s not uncommon to see people suggest massive watches, even making fun of men who wear smaller pieces.
The last year or so has seen somewhat of a return to form for watch geeks. We're ditching the big timepieces for smaller, chicer pieces that embrace tradition and subtly. If you look at old photos of celebrities from Cary Grant to Muhammed Ali, they all wore teeny tiny watches back in their primes. If they're man enough for them, they're man enough for you. The Wall Street Journal did a great write-up about the return of small watches.
Last week, I purchased a teeny tiny Timex Cavatina for $30 on Amazon. It's 18mm in diameter on a leather strap that's just 9mm in width. The watch sports a white dial with Arabic numerals and a gold case with a black leather strap. This makes for not only a classic look, but also one that's very chic and understated. There's also a gold version on a gold metal bracelet and a steel case with a stainless steel bracelet. The watch has a stark resemblance to the Cartier Baignoire, another teeny tiny ladies’ watch with roots tracing back to 1912.
Did I set out to buy a ladies’ watch? Not really. This was more of an impulse buy. I've been interested in small watches for some time now. I have several 40mm pieces that I love. I own a Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 in blue, that probably gets more wear than any other piece in my collection. On the other hand, I've been very interested in the elegance and subtlety of a small watch. I love how inconspicuous it looks. From far away, it doesn't even look like a watch, but rather a bracelet with a tiny gold bead at the head. It's also an exercise in minimalism for me. I do believe that most - if not all - watch enthusiasts secretly have the desire to use their watches as a means of braggadocio. Whether or not we like to admit it, we all have a tendency to want to show the world how well we are doing. With an 18mm watch, no one will look at my wrist, and it feels good to fly under the radar like that. The attention from wearing a 40mm Rolex Submariner isn't worth it most of the time.
For $30, the Timex Cavatina is a steal. It shot its way right up to the top of my collection and I plan to wear it on an upcoming trip to the East Coast. Now go out there and buy yourself a watch that's smaller than 34mm to start. Maybe work your way down to 18mm. Good luck, my brothers and sisters.
Peace and Love